Tam Tam de Beouf — Bull Fighting — Island Style

The bull tied to makeshift fence

They tied the bull to the makeshift fence and started calling for people to pay the small entrance fee.  The arena was a small plaza, in reality nothing more than a vacant lot surrounded by homes and balconies and a few staircases that led to nowhere.  Arriving early and looking around at the small enclosed space, my teammates and I decided to take a place on one of those staircases with a good view from above of the action and a strong railing. 

As we took our place the drummers arrived and began to drum.  Three drums made a vigorous excited rhythm that made the heart pound and anticipate something exciting.  The bull didn’t like the beat and bucked and stomped which raised cheers from the fans.  A horde of young boys made a circle around the bull wanting to show off their courage only to run away from the adults responsible for organizing the event.  This game would repeat numerous times throughout the festivities: young boys intruding into dangerous areas, adults running them off.  Meanwhile a diverse crowd of men, women, girls and boys had taken positions around the plaza.

Two men with long red scarves hanging from their shoulders moved into the center of the small plaza.  They began a dance which brought them slowly closer to the bull, waving their scarves which dangled from their arms in a come hither motion toward the bull.  As their dance ended, the rope was loosened and the bull was allowed some freedom.

The lot and boys tempting fate

We watched as men danced out of the way of the bulls horns, but the bull did not seem too interested in charging.  My island friend on the step above me said, “They used this bull last year and he was great.” But this year he seemed to have learned his lesson and seemed more eager to get away than to perform for the crowd.  Yet, for all the bull’s stalling, there were still exciting moments.  There was a close call when one of the dancers stumbled.  There was another one when the bull seemed intent on clearing out the crowd on a low balcony.  Yet another exciting moment happened when, with what looked like hardly any effort at all the bull pulled up the stakes of the makeshift fence and sent the drummers running!  There was even a moment of terror.  The bull had managed to break into the makeshift fence again and the young boys had crowded around to see, only to have the bull turn and charge toward the crowd, which ran in fear.  We watched from above as three boys seemed to be stepped on and crushed by the bull falling on them. Thankfully all three boys jumped up and ran away only moments later, so apparently no harm was done (except for the one boy’s mother who was so overcome with terror that she fainted flat out.)

But I think my personal favorite moment was when the bull had refused to charge and stalled so long they decided to let it take a break...by letting it run freely through the city streets!Understand, this is the old town, where there are not so much streets as winding narrow alleyways.  I pity the grandmother puttering down the alley only to be met by a muscled monstrous disgruntled bull, charging down on her!  But no one seemed to consider this an issue and we all let the bull have its run and waited for it to return to the ring.

The drummers

I have never been to a Spanish bullfight, but I’ve heard they are much crueler affairs with blood and gore and the death of the bull.  It struck me, that even with this uncooperative bull there was no one prodding or beating it.  No cattle prods or whips.  Only scarves and jeering. It brought to mind something I like about the islands. They are generally a peaceful people and for that we are thankful.

PRAYERS ANSWERED
Our kids finished their exams, marking the end of their island school year! Thank you for praying for our travels. They were long and we had one extremely tight connection but the kids did very well and we made it safely. We are now enjoying time with extended family at a family reunion (with 42 people!). As we passed through the big island we were able to connect with fellow-workers returning to Clove Island— this colleague has unexpectedly had to have a large tumor removed and hearing the story in person it was clear how miraculous the surgery, recovery and prognosis was. God is good! We have news that Ma Imani will be returning to Clove Island soon— we have missed her so we are excited to hear it.

PRAYERS REQUESTED
We traveled with our teammate off the islands. Pray for her as she stays in mainland Africa for another week and prepares to return home. Pray for a smooth transition and that she would have a real sense of God’s presence with her during this time. Pray for our teammates back on Clove Island too! Demonstrations continue on the islands as many are unhappy with the steps that the current president is taking. Continue to pray for truth and justice to reign and for good leadership.  New workers have arrived on the small island from another African nation— pray for their transition and as they build relationships with their co-workers and islanders.